Worth eating

Review of Mark Schatzker’s Steak.

You may think you don’t need to read a whole volume about one man’s quest for succulent pieces of a cow. Maybe you’re a vegetarian who objects to the very notion of steak. Maybe you think that yet another book about yet another guy’s deep obsession with yet another small corner of human existence is simply too much.

You’d be wrong. “Steak” is well worth reading, and not just for those of us whose mouth is set to watering by a cover that depicts four pieces of perfectly broiled steak skewered on a fork.

What Schatzker has done here, in this trip around the planet by a peripatetic carnivore chasing a meaty McGuffin, is nothing less than offer an impassioned, cogent, even humble defence of why the steak — and, by extension, meat in general — is worth eating.

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